• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
Pinch and Swirl
  • Home
  • Recipes
  • Collections
  • About
  • Free Recipe EBook
  • My Saved Recipes
menu icon
go to homepage
subscribe
search icon
Homepage link
  • Home
  • Recipes
  • Collections
  • About
  • Free Recipe EBook
  • My Saved Recipes
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • YouTube
  • ×
    Travel » Italy » Bologna

    Modern Antiquity

    Published: Sep 14, 2011 · Modified: Sep 13, 2018 by Marissa Stevens · 5 Comments

    In just two hours we arrive by train to Bologna. We splurge for first class on the regionale train from Venice Mestre station, just a few euros more. The seats have more cushion.

    First Class Train Seats

    From the Bologna Centrale station, we drag our roller bags for half a mile to our little apartment - bump, bump, bump, on the cobblestone. It's hot, 94 degrees, and the sidewalk bustles with people. Most faces are younger than 25 years; most bodies wear shorts and tank tops; many fingers clasp lit cigarettes. On the street, Vespas, cars, and buses roar by.

    Here, the sidewalks are covered by porticoes - Bologna is known for its 25 miles of them. It's also known for the University of Bologna. Nearly 100,000(!) students attend the school - the oldest university in Europe - 10% of the 1,000,000 citizens who live here.

    Bologna Italy Porticos

    Down a little alley, off the Via dell' Independenza, we find our apartment. It's perfect: clean, air conditioned, quiet. The furniture and appliances are new; the building is old.

    mets-apartment-bologna

    We drop off our luggage and walk a few blocks to the Piazza Maggiore. It's stunning - visually reminiscent of St. Mark's Square, yet peaceful with few tourists, few cameras. Neptune stands watch over the piazza - he hasn't budged since the 16th century. Students lounge on steps and sit at the base of the fountain. A man stands on a box and implores the people that surround him. At the edge of the square we see a nook of elegant stores: Gucci, Furla, Louis Vuitton.

    Piazza Maggiore Neptune Piazza Maggiore Neptune

    Piazza Maggiore Bologna Italy

    Piazza Maggiore Neptune

    We retrace our steps toward the train station; we want to walk in Matagnola Park. Two winding staircases and a marble fountain mark the entrance. A wide walking path circles the 16 acre park; we see joggers and parents pushing strollers. Four imposing statues surround a pond in the park's center. One is a lion, about to devour a serpent while he crushes a deer. Children play at one end; families and couples picnic at another.

    Matagnola Park Bologna Italy

    Matagnola Park Bologna Italy

    Matagnola Park Bologna Italy

    Matagnola Park Statue

    Matagnola Park Statue

    The sun has long set and our stomachs rumble. At Trattoria Anna Maria, we enjoy Tagliatelle with Bolognese Sauce and Tortelloni with Gorgonzola and Cream - dishes propelled by 500 hundred years of tradition. The couple seated next to us is from San Francisco, here to celebrate their 10th anniversary. They have the May issue of Bon Appetit with an article featuring Anna Maria.

    Our Bologna adventure begins.

    Tortelloni di Zucca

    More Bologna

    • Bolognese Sauce with pappardelle served in a shallow white bowl
      Bolognese Sauce
    • Last day in Bologna
    • Whip, Knead, Roll, Cut, Fill, Shape, Dry
    • And if you ask me why I'll say...

    Reader Interactions

    Comments

      Leave a Comment Cancel reply

      Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

      Recipe Rating




    1. jgk says

      September 18, 2011 at 3:35 pm

      I just want to encourage you to keep up the blog. I am enjoying it SO much!

      Reply
      • marissa says

        September 19, 2011 at 12:15 am

        Thanks so much - we're glad you're here.

        Reply
    2. Thom says

      September 16, 2011 at 11:24 pm

      Sexy digs, and nice photo of an explanation point. ;)- Gorgeous statuary pics.

      Reply
      • marissa says

        September 17, 2011 at 12:19 am

        Oops, picture goof. Thanks for the catch...

        Reply
    3. Jenn says

      September 14, 2011 at 7:30 pm

      LOVE! Just LOVE it!

      Reply

    Primary Sidebar

    The best food happens at home. I love delicious food prepared simply with fresh ingredients and that’s just what you’ll find here! You can count on me for well tested, mouthwatering recipes designed for home cooks. Learn more →

    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • YouTube
    • Facebook
    12 Recipes to Know by Heart Book Cover
    Subscribe for Free E-Cookbook

    Reader Favorites

    • Oven Roasted Crispy Pork Belly
    • lemon garlic pasta served in a white bowl
      Lemon Garlic Pasta
    • Carne-Asada thinly sliced across the grain featured
      Carne Asada Recipe
    • Shrimp Tacos served on a white oval platter with extra sauce on the side.
      Shrimp Tacos
    • Bacon Wrapped Scallops
    • Creamy Tomato Bisque
      Tomato Bisque
    • Mashed Red Potatoes photographed from above featured
      Mashed Red Potatoes
    • Grilled Lamb Chops
    • Crispy Baked Buffalo Wings
    • Rice Cooker Mexican Rice served in a gray ceramic bowl and photographed from above.
      Rice Cooker Mexican Rice

    Footer

    ↑ back to top

    About

    • Privacy Policy
    • Terms & Conditions

    Newsletter

    • Sign Up!

    Contact

    • Meet Marissa
    • Contact

    Copyright © 2022 PinchandSwirl

    • Facebook
    • Pinterest
    • Email